Turkey Holiday Diary 8 min read
Welcome to a Turkey You Did Not Know Existed
When most people think of Turkey, they picture sunny beaches, ancient ruins, and mosques. The Black Sea coast Turkey is something else entirely. This is a land of steep green mountains, misty valleys, rushing rivers, tea plantations that stretch to the horizon, and a cuisine so unique it could be from another country altogether.
The eastern Black Sea region, from Trabzon to Artvin, feels like a cross between the Swiss Alps and the Colombian coffee country. Dense forests, alpine meadows, stone bridges, wooden chalets, and clouds that roll through the valleys like slow rivers. If you have already seen Cappadocia and the Turquoise Coast, this is the Turkey that will surprise you most.
Trabzon: Gateway to the Black Sea
Trabzon is the main city and transport hub of the eastern Black Sea region. It has a fascinating history as the capital of the medieval Trebizond Empire and a major Silk Road trading post.
Things to See in Trabzon
- Hagia Sophia of Trabzon — A stunning 13th-century Byzantine church (now a mosque) with remarkable frescoes. Not to be confused with Istanbul’s version, but equally beautiful in its own way
- Ataturk Pavilion — A charming early 20th-century mansion set in gardens overlooking the city
- Trabzon bazaar — Lively local market where you can buy fresh tea, local honey, hazelnuts, and Black Sea cheeses
- Boztepe Hill — Drive or taxi up for panoramic views over the city and the Black Sea. Particularly beautiful at sunset with a glass of cay in hand
Trabzon is also home to excellent pide shops. Black Sea pide is boat-shaped, with a thinner and crispier base than you find elsewhere in Turkey. Try it with kasar cheese and egg — the classic local version.
Sumela Monastery: The Cliffside Wonder
Built into a sheer rock face 1,200 metres above sea level and surrounded by dense forest, the Sumela Monastery is one of the most dramatic sights in all of Turkey. Founded in 386 AD, it clings to the cliff like something from a fantasy novel.
The monastery is about 46 km south of Trabzon in the Altindere Valley National Park. After a scenic drive through the forest, you reach the car park, then walk or take a shuttle up to the monastery entrance. Inside, you will find frescoed chapel walls, monk cells carved into the rock, and vertigo-inducing views down the forested valley.
Pro tip: Visit on a weekday morning to avoid the worst crowds. The road up is narrow and parking is limited. Bring a jacket even in summer — the mountain air is cool and mist rolls in frequently. Stop at the trout restaurants in the valley below on your way back for incredibly fresh stream trout grilled over charcoal.
Uzungol: The Instagram-Famous Lake
Uzungol is a mountain lake surrounded by forested hills and alpine meadows, about 100 km southeast of Trabzon. The name means “long lake,” and the scenery is genuinely spectacular. A small village sits along the lakeshore with wooden chalets, small hotels, and tea gardens.
The area has become extremely popular in recent years, and the village can feel over-touristed on summer weekends. For a better experience, stay overnight during the week and walk up to the surrounding yayla (highland) meadows above the lake. The views from the hills above Uzungol, especially in the early morning when mist hangs over the lake, are extraordinary.
Ayder Plateau: Hot Springs in the Clouds
Ayder is a yayla settlement at 1,350 metres altitude in the Kackar Mountains, above the Firtina Valley. It is famous for its thermal hot springs, mountain scenery, and being the base for treks into the Kackar range.
- Thermal baths — Natural hot spring pools at around 55 degrees Celsius. Open year-round and perfect after a day of hiking
- Kackar Mountains trekking — Multi-day treks through alpine meadows, glacial lakes, and mountain passes above 3,000 metres
- Zip line — One of the longest zip lines in Turkey, stretching across the valley
- Yayla culture — Visit in summer when herders bring their animals up to the highland meadows, living in traditional wooden houses
Rize: Heart of Turkey’s Tea Country
Rize is the tea capital of Turkey. The hillsides around the city are covered in endless rows of tea bushes, creating a patchwork of vivid green that stretches as far as you can see. Turkey is one of the world’s largest tea producers, and virtually all of it comes from here.
Visit a tea garden (cay bahcesi) and learn about how Turkish cay goes from bush to your tulip-shaped glass. The Rize Tea Research Institute offers tours, and many local farmers welcome visitors during harvest season (May to October). Drinking freshly brewed cay on a hillside overlooking the tea terraces, with the Black Sea glinting in the distance, is one of Turkey’s most peaceful experiences.
Firtina Valley and Artvin
The Firtina (Storm) Valley is a dramatic river gorge that cuts through the mountains between the coast and the Kackar range. The drive along the valley is spectacular, with Ottoman-era stone arch bridges, rushing rapids, and tiny mountain villages.
Further east, the province of Artvin is Turkey’s wildest and least visited corner. Dense forests, dramatic gorges, and remote Georgian churches and castles dot the landscape. The town of Yusufeli (now partially submerged by a dam) was once a famous whitewater rafting destination, but the upper Coruh River still offers excellent rafting.
Black Sea Cuisine: A Delicious Surprise
The food of the Black Sea region is unlike anything else in Turkey. Butter, corn, anchovies, and greens replace the olive oil, wheat, and grilled meats you find further south.
| Dish | What It Is | Must-Try? |
|---|---|---|
| Muhlama/Kuymak | Melted cheese with butter and cornmeal — a fondue-like dish | Absolutely essential |
| Karadeniz pidesi | Boat-shaped pide with egg, meat, or cheese | The best pide in Turkey |
| Hamsi (anchovy) | Fried, grilled, baked in bread, in rice — anchovies cooked every way | A Black Sea obsession |
| Karalahana corbasi | Black cabbage soup, earthy and warming | Perfect for mountain weather |
| Laz boregi | Sweet layered pastry with custard filling | Unique to the region |
| Misi bread | Cornbread served with butter and cheese | Simple but delicious |
Pro tip: Breakfast in the Black Sea region is legendary. Expect muhlama, freshly baked misi bread, local honey with kaymak, butter from the yayla, multiple cheeses, and glass after glass of strong Black Sea cay. It is the best breakfast region in all of Turkey, which is saying something in a country famous for breakfast.
Weather and Best Time to Visit
The Black Sea coast has its own microclimate. It rains more here than anywhere else in Turkey, especially on the coast. This is what makes everything so green, but it also means you need to plan for rain.
- Best months: June to September for the highlands. July and August are warmest, but afternoon showers are common
- Spring (April to May): Wildflowers in the meadows, but higher yayla areas may still have snow
- Autumn (October): Stunning foliage colours in the forests
- Winter: Cold and wet on the coast, snowy in the mountains. Some roads close
Always bring a rain jacket and layers, even in summer. Mountain weather changes fast.
How to Get to the Black Sea Coast
| Method | Details | Travel Time |
|---|---|---|
| Fly to Trabzon | Direct flights from Istanbul, Ankara, and Izmir | 1.5-2 hours from Istanbul |
| Bus from Istanbul | Overnight buses to Trabzon, Rize, or Artvin | 12-14 hours |
| Drive | Coastal road from Samsun or inland via Gumushane | Varies — scenic both ways |
| Fly to Artvin | Nearest airport is Artvin-Hopa (limited flights) | 2 hours from Istanbul |
Once in the region, a rental car is highly recommended. Public transport exists but is limited in the mountain areas. The roads are winding but well surfaced, and the driving scenery is among the best in Turkey.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is the Black Sea coast worth visiting compared to the Mediterranean?
They are completely different experiences. The Mediterranean and Turquoise Coast offer beaches and ancient ruins. The Black Sea offers mountains, green nature, unique cuisine, and a culture you will not find anywhere else. If you want to see a side of Turkey most tourists miss, come here.
How many days do you need for the Black Sea coast?
Five days lets you cover Trabzon, Sumela, Uzungol, and Ayder. Seven to ten days gives you time for Rize tea country, Artvin, and proper mountain hiking. Do not rush it — the joy of this region is in the slow pace.
Do people speak English on the Black Sea coast?
Less than in tourist areas like Istanbul or Antalya. Learning a few Turkish phrases goes a long way. The locals are incredibly welcoming and will go out of their way to help, even with a language barrier. You will be invited for cay within your first hour.
Is the food really that different?
Completely. If you have only eaten Turkish food in Istanbul or on the coast, Black Sea cuisine will be a revelation. The emphasis on butter, cornmeal, and anchovies creates flavours you simply cannot find elsewhere in Turkey. Make sure you check our budget guide for dining costs in the region.
Turkey’s Black Sea coast is the country’s best-kept secret. Come for the mountains, the food, the tea, and the warmth of the people. Leave knowing you have seen a Turkey that most visitors never discover.
Our previous article Turquoise Coast Guide: Turkey's Most Beautiful Coastline in our article titled Adventure, Beach Holidays ve Mediterranean provides information about.