Turkey Holiday Diary 8 min read
An Island Escape Just 90 Minutes from Istanbul
The Princes Islands Istanbul experience is one of the city’s best-kept secrets among international visitors. Just a short ferry ride from the chaos of Istanbul, these nine car-free islands sit in the Sea of Marmara, offering pine-forested hills, Victorian-era wooden mansions, horse-drawn carriage nostalgia replaced by electric vehicles, and a pace of life that feels a century removed from the megacity on the horizon.
Four of the islands are open to visitors, and each has its own character. Whether you want a full day of cycling and swimming or just a peaceful lunch overlooking the sea, the Princes Islands are the perfect antidote to Istanbul’s intensity.
If you are planning your time in Istanbul, this day trip pairs beautifully with our Istanbul public transport guide and airport transfer tips.
The Four Main Islands
Buyukada (Big Island)
Buyukada is the largest and most popular island. It has the most to see and do, the best restaurants, and the grandest wooden mansions. The main town has a charming high street lined with cafes, ice cream shops, and small boutiques. Beyond the town, pine-forested hills offer walking and cycling trails with gorgeous views over the sea.
Key sights on Buyukada:
- Aya Yorgi Church and Monastery — Perched on the island’s highest hill (203 metres), reached by a 30-minute uphill walk. The views from the top are spectacular. Tradition says you tie a piece of string to the gate while making a wish on the way up
- Historic wooden mansions — Grand Victorian-era summer houses built by Ottoman-era merchants. Many are beautifully restored. The Splendid Palace Hotel is a particularly impressive example
- Clock tower and main square — The heart of the island, surrounded by cafes and the ferry terminal
- Yuce Tepe beach — A paid beach club on the south side with clear water and sunbeds
Pro tip: Rent a bike early in the morning before the day-trip crowds arrive. The flat route around the island takes about an hour and passes through quiet neighbourhoods and past beautiful sea views. The hilly interior routes are more challenging but even more rewarding.
Heybeliada (Saddlebag Island)
Heybeliada is the second-largest island and many locals prefer it to Buyukada for its slightly quieter vibe. The main street is charming, with good restaurants and a lovely market. The island has excellent swimming spots and a beautiful naval academy that dominates the waterfront.
- Halki Seminary — A Greek Orthodox theological school closed since 1971, set on a hilltop with beautiful grounds and a library. Currently not open to visitors, but the walk up is scenic
- Cam Limani Beach — A popular public beach on the far side of the island, set in a pine forest
- Degirmen Burnu — The windmill point at the tip of the island, great for sunset views
Burgazada
Burgazada is smaller and quieter, which is exactly its charm. It has a lovely waterfront with fish restaurants, a small bazaar, the Sait Faik Museum (dedicated to one of Turkey’s best-loved short story writers), and excellent swimming from the rocks. This is the island for people who find Buyukada too busy.
Kinaliada
The closest island to Istanbul and the least “pretty” in the traditional sense. Kinaliada has a more residential, lived-in feel with a strong Armenian community. The swimming is good, the restaurants are honest, and the lack of tourist crowds means you get a more authentic island experience. The sunset views back towards Istanbul from Kinaliada are among the best in the archipelago.
Ferry Schedules and Prices (2026)
Getting to the Princes Islands is easy and affordable using the city ferry system.
| Detail | Information |
|---|---|
| Departure point | Kabatas or Kadikoy ferry terminals (Istanbul) |
| Ferry operator | Sehir Hatlari (city ferries) or IDO (fast ferries) |
| Journey time to Buyukada | 90 minutes (city ferry) or 45 minutes (fast ferry) |
| Journey time to Kinaliada | 45 minutes (city ferry) |
| Frequency | Every 1-2 hours in summer, less frequent in winter |
| Price | Around 50-80 TL with Istanbulkart (city ferry) |
| Fast ferry price | 120-180 TL |
| First ferry | Around 6:30 AM from Kabatas |
| Last return ferry | Around 10:00-11:00 PM (check seasonal schedules) |
The ferry stops at each island in order: Kinaliada, Burgazada, Heybeliada, and Buyukada. You can hop between islands using the inter-island ferry service that runs throughout the day.
Pro tip: Use your Istanbulkart for the cheapest fares. Avoid weekends in summer if possible — the ferries get extremely crowded with Istanbul residents escaping the city heat. The Friday afternoon ferry and the Sunday evening return can be standing-room-only chaos.
Getting Around the Islands
The islands are car-free, which is a huge part of their charm. Here is how you get around:
- Electric vehicles (fayton electrique) — In 2020, the famous horse-drawn carriages were replaced with electric vehicles due to animal welfare concerns. Electric phaeton tours of Buyukada cost around 300-500 TL for a 45-minute circuit
- Bicycle rental — Available at multiple shops near each ferry terminal. Prices range from 100-200 TL per day. Multi-speed bikes are recommended for the hills
- Walking — The islands are small enough to explore on foot. Buyukada takes 3-4 hours to walk around, the smaller islands less
- Electric scooters — Available for rent on Buyukada
Beaches and Swimming
Swimming is one of the main reasons to visit the islands in summer. The water is surprisingly clean and much better than along Istanbul’s coast.
- Buyukada: Yuce Tepe, Halik Koyu, and several small beach clubs on the southern shore (entry fee 150-300 TL including sunbed)
- Heybeliada: Cam Limani is the main beach, set among pine trees. Ada Beach Club is another popular option
- Burgazada: Madame Martha’s Beach and rocky swimming spots along the western shore
- Kinaliada: Several small beaches on the southern coast, less developed but less crowded
Where to Eat on the Islands
The islands have excellent restaurants, especially for seafood. Expect to pay slightly more than mainland Istanbul prices, but the quality and setting make up for it.
| Island | What to Eat | Budget per Person |
|---|---|---|
| Buyukada | Fresh fish, meze, grilled octopus, island breakfast | 300-600 TL |
| Heybeliada | Fish and chips, waterfront meze, homemade ice cream | 250-500 TL |
| Burgazada | Simple fish restaurants, village-style cooking | 200-400 TL |
| Kinaliada | Grilled fish, kebabs, traditional lokanta food | 200-350 TL |
On Buyukada, walk past the first row of restaurants near the ferry terminal — they are tourist traps. Head into the backstreets or towards the far side of the island for better food and prices. The fish sandwich (balik ekmek) sold at small stands near the ferry is cheap, filling, and delicious.
Best Season to Visit
- Peak season (June to August): Hot, sunny, and very crowded, especially weekends. Best for swimming. Visit on weekdays
- Spring (April to May): Flowers everywhere, pleasant temperatures, fewer crowds. Perfect for cycling and walking
- Autumn (September to October): Warm enough for swimming, beautiful light, and tourist numbers drop significantly
- Winter: Quiet and atmospheric but many restaurants close. Ferries run less frequently. Has a melancholy beauty
Suggested Day Trip Itinerary
- 8:30 AM: Take the ferry from Kabatas to Buyukada
- 10:00 AM: Arrive, rent bikes, cycle the flat coastal route around the island
- 11:30 AM: Lock up bikes, walk up to Aya Yorgi Church for the views
- 12:30 PM: Lunch at a backstreet restaurant — grilled fish, meze, and cold beer
- 2:00 PM: Head to a beach club for swimming and relaxation
- 4:30 PM: Take the inter-island ferry to Heybeliada for cay and a walk
- 6:00 PM: Catch the ferry back to Istanbul, watching the city skyline appear as you approach
Frequently Asked Questions
Can you visit more than one island in a day?
Yes. Inter-island ferries run throughout the day in summer. Most people combine Buyukada with Heybeliada. Adding a third island makes for a very full day but is possible.
Are the islands suitable for families with children?
Absolutely. The car-free environment is safe for kids, the beaches are calm, and cycling is fun for the whole family. Buyukada has ice cream shops and restaurants with kid-friendly options.
Do you need to book ferry tickets in advance?
No. Just tap your Istanbulkart at the terminal. However, for fast ferry (IDO) services, booking online can guarantee a seat on busy summer weekends.
Is it worth staying overnight on the islands?
If you want to experience the islands without the day-trip crowds, absolutely. After the last ferry leaves, the islands become incredibly peaceful. Boutique hotels and guesthouses on Buyukada range from 1,500 to 5,000 TL per night. Waking up to birdsong, an island breakfast, and an empty street is magical. For budget planning, see our Turkey cost guide.
The Princes Islands are Istanbul’s breathing room. A ferry ride transports you from one of the world’s busiest cities to a place where the loudest sound is bicycle bells and seagulls. Whether you come for a few hours or stay the night, the islands will remind you to slow down.
Our previous article Gobeklitepe: The World's Oldest Temple in Turkey in our article titled Historical Places ve Travel Guide provides information about.