Turkey Holiday Diary 9 min read
Side: Where Ancient Ruins Meet the Beach
Side (pronounced “see-deh”) is one of those rare places where you can sunbathe next to a 2,000-year-old Roman temple. Seriously. The Temple of Apollo sits right at the tip of a small peninsula, with beaches stretching out on both sides. It’s one of the most photographed spots in all of Turkey, and once you see it, you’ll understand why.
This Side Turkey travel guide covers everything from the ancient ruins and best beaches to boat trips, restaurants, and nightlife. Whether you’re here for history, relaxation, or a bit of both, Side delivers.
The Temple of Apollo: Side’s Star Attraction
Let’s start with the big one. The Temple of Apollo sits at the very tip of the Side peninsula, overlooking the sea on three sides. Only five columns and part of the architrave remain standing, but that’s exactly what makes it so photogenic — ancient columns framing the blue Mediterranean.
The temple dates back to the 2nd century AD and was dedicated to Apollo, the god of light and the sun. It’s free to walk around the exterior (you can’t go inside the roped-off area), and it’s accessible 24 hours a day.
Pro tip: Come at sunset. This is not optional. The Temple of Apollo at sunset, with the sun sinking into the sea behind the columns, is one of the most magical sights in Turkey. Get there about 30 minutes before sunset to grab a good spot — it gets crowded. Right next to it are the remains of the Temple of Athena, which is less photographed but equally atmospheric.
Side Ancient City: More Than Just a Temple
Side was one of the most important port cities of ancient Pamphylia, and there’s much more to explore than just the Temple of Apollo.
Must-See Ancient Sites
- Roman Theatre — The largest ancient theatre in Pamphylia, seating around 15,000 spectators. It’s remarkably well preserved and you can climb to the top for panoramic views over the peninsula and the sea.
- Side Museum — Housed in the restored 5th-century Roman baths, this small museum has an excellent collection of statues, sarcophagi, and reliefs found in the area. The courtyard alone is beautiful.
- Agora — The ancient marketplace where columns still stand in rows. This was also the site of one of the ancient world’s largest slave markets — a sobering thought.
- City Walls & Gate — The impressive main gate and sections of the ancient city wall are still standing. The monumental fountain (Nymphaeum) near the entrance is worth a stop.
- Colonnaded Street — The ancient main road lined with columns leads from the gate all the way to the harbour. Today it’s lined with shops and restaurants, but the ancient columns are still there.
Pro tip: Buy the combined ticket for the theatre and museum. It’s better value and saves queuing twice. Visit in the morning when it’s cooler — the theatre has no shade at all.
Best Beaches in Side
Side’s peninsula has beaches on both sides, and they each have a different character.
West Beach
West Beach is the more popular and developed side. The sand is golden and fine, the water is warm and shallow for a good distance out, and there are sunbeds and beach clubs all along the shore. Behind the beach you’ll find a promenade with restaurants, bars, and ice cream shops.
This is where most of the action is. It’s lively, social, and has everything you need. The downside? It gets very crowded in July and August.
East Beach
East Beach is the quieter alternative. It’s just as beautiful — actually, many say it’s even more beautiful because you can see the ancient city walls from the sand. The beach stretches for kilometres and gets less crowded the further east you walk.
There are fewer facilities than the west side, but several beach clubs have set up along the shore. If you want a more relaxed day, this is your beach.
| Feature | West Beach | East Beach |
|---|---|---|
| Sand type | Golden, fine | Golden, fine |
| Crowds | Busy, especially in peak season | Quieter and more relaxed |
| Facilities | Lots of sunbeds, bars, restaurants | Fewer but growing |
| Views | Open sea, sunset views | Ancient city walls, Taurus mountains |
| Best for | Families, socialising, convenience | Couples, relaxation, photography |
Manavgat Waterfall & River
About 3 km from Side’s centre, the Manavgat Waterfall is a wide, cascading waterfall on the Manavgat River. It’s not the tallest waterfall you’ll ever see, but it’s surprisingly powerful and the surrounding park is lovely. The mist from the falls keeps the area cool even on the hottest days.
There are restaurants and çay bahçeleri (tea gardens) right by the waterfall where you can sit and enjoy the sound of rushing water with a glass of Turkish çay. Very relaxing.
For a different experience, take a Manavgat River boat trip. These typically go upstream from the town through beautiful green scenery, with a lunch stop included. It’s a peaceful half-day outing. Expect to pay around 300-500 TL per person including lunch.
Boat Trips from Side
Boat trips are one of the most popular activities in Side. You’ll see the tour boats lined up at the harbour, and touts will approach you along the promenade. Here are your main options:
- Coastal cruise — Sail along the coast with swimming stops in secluded bays. Usually includes lunch and soft drinks. Full day, around 400-600 TL.
- Manavgat River trip — A calmer, greener experience upriver. Half day, around 300-500 TL.
- Fishing trips — Early morning or evening fishing excursions. Some include cooking your catch for dinner.
- Sunset cruise — A shorter evening trip that takes you past the Temple of Apollo at sunset. Stunning views.
Pro tip: Book your boat trip at one of the offices along the harbour rather than from hotel reception. You’ll get a much better price. And always check what’s included — some trips advertise low prices but then charge extra for drinks or towels.
Shopping in Side
The pedestrianised old town streets are packed with shops selling leather goods, jewellery, Turkish textiles, ceramics, and souvenirs. Haggling is expected and part of the fun — start at about 50% of the asking price and work from there.
For something more authentic, visit the Manavgat Market. It runs on Mondays and Thursdays, and it’s huge. Locals come from all over the region to buy fresh produce, spices, clothing, and household goods. You’ll find excellent prices on Turkish towels (pestemals), spices, dried fruits, and leather bags. It’s a 10-minute dolmuş ride from Side.
Where to Eat in Side
Side’s dining scene ranges from tourist-friendly restaurants on the promenade to hidden gems in the back streets.
Restaurant Recommendations
- Harbour area restaurants — Great for seafood with views of the fishing boats and Temple of Apollo. Expect to pay a premium for the location.
- Back street lokantas — Walk away from the waterfront for more authentic food at lower prices. Look for places where Turkish families are eating — always a good sign.
- Gözleme stalls — You’ll find women making fresh gözleme (Turkish flatbread filled with cheese, spinach, or potato) at market stalls. Cheap, filling, and delicious.
Don’t miss trying fresh pomegranate juice from the street vendors. Side is surrounded by pomegranate orchards, and the fresh-squeezed juice here is some of the best in Turkey. A glass costs around 40-60 TL.
Nightlife in Side
Side has a solid nightlife scene, especially along the western waterfront and in the streets behind.
- Lighthouse Bar — Cocktails with a view right near the Temple of Apollo. The setting is unbeatable.
- Apollonik Cocktail Bar — Another temple-view spot popular for pre-dinner drinks.
- West Beach bars — Several bars along the promenade have live music and stay open late.
- Disco/club area — There are a few larger clubs on the road leading out of town towards Manavgat. They get going around midnight and run until the early hours.
The nightlife is fun but not wild. If you’re looking for Ibiza-style clubbing, Side isn’t the place. But for a few cocktails with ancient ruins glowing in the background? Perfect.
Where to Stay in Side
| Area | Best For | Price Range (per night) |
|---|---|---|
| Side old town peninsula | Sightseeing, walking to everything | 1,000-3,000 TL |
| West Beach hotels | Beach holiday with easy town access | 1,500-4,000 TL |
| East Beach resorts | Quiet all-inclusive holidays | 2,000-6,000 TL |
| Kumköy (north of Side) | Budget-friendly, family resorts | 800-2,500 TL |
| Sorgun/Titreyengöl | Luxury all-inclusive in pine forests | 3,000-8,000 TL |
Pro tip: If you want to experience Side properly, stay in or very near the old town peninsula. Being able to walk to the Temple of Apollo at sunset without catching a dolmuş makes a huge difference.
How to Get to Side
Side doesn’t have its own airport. The nearest is Antalya Airport (AYT), about 65 km west.
- Airport transfer — Pre-booked shared or private transfers are the easiest option. A private transfer costs around 800-1,200 TL and takes about 1 hour.
- Public transport — Take the Havaş bus from Antalya Airport to Manavgat otogar (bus station), then a dolmuş to Side. Cheap but slower — about 2 hours total.
- Rental car — The drive from Antalya is easy on the D400 highway. Parking in Side itself can be tricky in summer, but there are car parks at the entrance to town.
Within Side, the old town is entirely walkable. For beaches further out or trips to Manavgat, dolmuş minibuses run frequently and cost next to nothing.
Practical Tips for Side
- Best months: May, June, September, October. July and August are extremely hot (often 40°C+) and very crowded.
- Wear good shoes in the old town — ancient cobblestones and marble can be slippery.
- Sunscreen is essential. The Mediterranean sun here is fierce, even on cloudy days.
- ATMs are plentiful in the old town. Most restaurants accept cards, but smaller shops and market stalls prefer cash (Turkish Lira).
- Side means “pomegranate” in an ancient Anatolian language. You’ll see the pomegranate symbol everywhere — it’s the town’s emblem.
Side is one of those destinations that works for almost everyone. History lovers, beach lovers, foodies, families — it ticks all the boxes. And there’s something truly magical about watching the sun set behind columns that have stood for 2,000 years.
Our previous article Antalya Travel Guide: Best Things to Do, See & Eat in our article titled antalya, Beach Holidays ve Mediterranean provides information about.